Catch up time

Busy few months for us -- many knitting projects have been completed, we had a lovely shower for my son and future daughter in law, a few fun outings, and a few health issues have reared their nasty little heads. All seems to be calm once again, so it must be time to update the blog a little.

On the weekend, we had a fake wedding rehearsal with some of the things that I made for the wedding. It is going to be a great event!

I made some penguin bride and grooms for the shower for one of the games. The guests had to guess how much yarn it took to make the toys. The guesses made me smile!

I just finished this reindeer. Some of the family think it looks like a moose. Perhaps it does! Either way, it is quite cute.

I also finished this charming bird by the same designer as the reindeer/moose

While visiting the hospital, I needed something easy to work on so a few more doll clothes came to be for an 18 inch doll. The cap was added as a KAL for one of the Ravelry groups I am in.

And I have been working on knitting nursery rhymes and animals for Noah's Ark! I think that catches me up.

Mary Had a Little Lamb

Little Bo Peep

Jack and Jill

My next project will be recording directions for a few more of the princess dolls, for those who are interested in making them. So many people have been to get the directions for the first dolls but only one person has posted finished pictures for me to see. She did a great job on her dolls so I guess the directions are okay to follow as I write them.

Doll Clothes and More Doll Clothes

My goodness how time flies! Many projects have been completed and much has been planned, as always for me! There are never enough hours in a day to do all that I intend.

I have been amazed at how many people have shown interest in my doll directions, and I was so happy to be able to see pictures of some finished dolls too! Who knew writing knitting patterns could be so satisfying? Alas, I have stopped recording the directions for making things this month as I have jumped into a doll clothes making phase. I will not take the time to tell you about all the clothes here, but they are all on my Ravelry page if you would like to read more specifics about them. I think I have to be careful or I am going to become too fond of my 18 inch model doll and won't want to part with the things that I make for her. So far I have resisted giving her a name, as once that happens I think I will have firmly adopted her and then she will need even more clothes! :D

Winter set -- coat, warm headband, mittens, boots, scarf and messenger bag. All items in this set were knit.

Going to the library set:  top, skirt, sandals, book bag, headband and belt. The sandals were crochet, but all other parts were knit.

Dressed up for the dance: The skirt was a test crochet, which I enjoyed as I learned how to use beads when I crochet. The skirt was not well suited to being just a skirt though so I created a top to go with it. All crochet.

Crochet skirt set for a job interview perhaps? The cardigan was modified from a pattern for a smaller doll and the skirt was once again my own creation. All crochet.

I bought some Bernat mosaic yarn as the colours are so vibrant, but then what to do with the yarn? Why, crochet colourful clothing for dolls of course! Full skirt, puffy sleeve bolero and shell, with kerchief to match, all crochet and all my own designs.

The Cabbage Patch model is Violet, and I thank my daughter in law for kindly lending her to me so I could make suitable clothes for this kind of doll. I had many requests for clothing for these at the craft shows last fall, and I admit, they are fun to make. As you can see, I got a little carried away with a few ensembles for Violet.

White skirt and matching ruffled top, my own designs. Knit pants, shell, and jacket from various sources ... see Ravelry for more information on them. Also some matching shoes.

White pants, striped top, tri colour headband (which can also be worn as a belt), navy short rompers, navy hoodie, red ankle bracelet, and a red skirt and white top which is not pictured here, for a weekend get away for Violet!

Capri pants, sweater (or it can be worn the other way around as a t shirt), shoes, headband and bag for a fast trip to the store.

The end of the month finds me making Nursery Rhyme softees as my husband gave me 2 wonderful knitting books for my birthday. One is Knitted Nursery Rhymes, by Sarah Keen, and the other is another Sarah Keen book, Knitted Noah's Ark. I have her book of patterns for wild animals too, so once I start the ark project, I am sure it will be crammed full of animals!

Hope to record a few more patterns in the near future, to share with you. Thank you for stopping by!

A Tutorial on How I Embroider my Doll Faces

So many people have shown interest in the recipe for the dolls! I wish I had written a more professional looking recipe for them. I have a few edits to make to those posts that will clean them up a little.

But I digress. I wrote that I embroider the faces and add a nose and ears but did not go into any detail about doing so. So, I used a doll I just finished to note the steps that I take to make my faces.

For this doll, I used blue embroidery thread for the eyes, some white for the sparkle, golden brown for the eyebrows, and dark pink for the mouth. The nose and ears are skin toned yarn.

The first thing to add is the nose. Using skin colour, I insert a long darning needle through the base of the neck at the back of the doll and have it coming out in the centre of the face where the nose will be. I leave a tail perhaps 10 cm long sticking out the back of the neck to tie a knot in later. The nose is only 1 stitch wide. I sew over the top of the stitch, then back under it, over it and under it, always using the same hole. The nose is usually about 4 wraps in size.

Come out at the centre of the face

The nose is 1 stitch wide

Go in and out of the same hole 4 times, then bring the needle out on one side for the ear.

Then I take the same needle and yarn and bring the needle out right beside the hairline on the left of the face as it faces me, to make the ear. Make a long stitch, perhaps 3 rows in length, and come out at the same hole you started in. Do not pull this stitch tight yet. Now, put the needle under and around the yarn that will form the ear 4 times. Now gently pull the stitch so it is snug. Put the needle into the bottom of the ear and come out at the top, then do the same on the other side. Now you have the bulk of the ear and 2 long stitches that run right along the side of the ear. Without breaking the yarn, insert the needle into the head and bring it out on the other side of the head to make the other ear. Once this ear is finished, push the needle and yarn through the head to come out near the starting point on the back of the neck. Tie a knot, and tuck the yarn ends into the inside of the dolls head.

The ear is 3 rows long

Insert the needle and yarn 3 or 4 times as in the picture. 

Make a long stitch across the front and back of the ear to finish it off.

Now I make the eyes. Using embroidery thread, and a smaller embroidery needle, insert the needle and thread into the doll about 1 stitch to the right of the nose and 1 stitch above the nose. The eye will be 1 stitch wide. Using the same hole, sew over and under that stitch 4 or 5 times so you have a nice sized eye. Pull the needle and thread through the stuffing so it comes out on the other side of the nose on the same row. I leave 3 stitches between the eyes usually, but that depends on the size of the face on the doll. Embroider the second eye to match the first, then I go back to the first eye to do one more stitch, back to the second eye for another stitch, then I insert the needle so it comes out in the hair and cut the thread close so the cut ends disappear. Using white thread, sew a small stitch in both eyes to make them sparkle! Hide the cut ends the same as for the main eye colour.

The head is upside down in the picture. One eye is finished and the second eye is ready to be embroidered.

The eyebrows are 1 1/2 stitches wide, and they slant slightly. They are 2 repeats of the same stitch going in and out of the same holes, as the eyes.

The mouth is about 2 stitches wide, centred under the nose and about 3 stitches below the nose. I made a "U" stitch and then bring the needle up under the bottom of the U to catch the thread and hold it in place, then insert the needle in a slightly different place at the bottom of the smile and make a small knot. Bring the thread out somewhere else on the head and cut the thread so the ends are hidden inside.

The mouth is 2 stitches wide but is really just one long stitch which is caught at the bottom 1 row lower than the stitch entry points.

This doll needed some bangs added. Sometimes they need this and sometimes they don't! You will be able to tell on your own doll if it needs a little filler near the hairline. I use the hair colour yarn and make a few long and short stitches to form the bangs.

Final touch, use a red coloured pencil and add a little smudge of colour to the cheeks. Now you have a little princess doll with a load of character!

I hope you enjoy making some of these little dolls and that you find my tips and hints helpful!

Colour Day for the Eggs

Twyla and Tyson Duck were waddling on their way with a definite purpose in their steps, when they met Albert and Allie Egg.

After greeting each other, they discovered they were all on the way to the Great Easter Egg Colour Dunk and Dive. This event happens every year on the day before Easter, when the young eggs volunteer to get a new colour for the holiday. The older eggs like to gather to watch the festivities and cheer on the young eggs.

The ducks decided they would fly the rest of the way, so the eggs continued on their own. They met many other eggs en route, which made it much more festive as they paraded to the Colour Tub.

The older eggs settled themselves to watch the action as the young eggs submerged in the colour tub.

The first young egg jumped in

and emerged with a fancy new colour!

The other eggs quickly completed their colouring, and they sat on the drying mat until the new colour coat was dry.

As they waited, the older eggs gathered for a group photo.

After the festivities, all the eggs relaxed so they would be ready for hiding on Easter.

The eggs were all made of cotton and measure about 3 inches sitting down. There are many free egg patterns on Ravelry if you need some guidance.

The arms and legs are made with an I cord, with a rectangle (14 stitches wide) for the feet and hands. The feet and hands are seamed and then gathered before being sewn on.

Knitted Doll Recipe Modification #1

It is quite easy to make a companion doll for your first doll with a few modifications.

Finished Doll

For this doll, I used 12 gm black yarn, 8 gm skin tone, 7 gm light blue, 15 gm navy, 14 gm purple and 12 gm chestnut. All yarns were worsted weight. You also need a small amount of stuffing, and some thread to embroider the face.

Follow the same directions for the legs, body and head, but the colour changes will happen at a different point. This doll has black boots, so keep working in black for 8 rows after the ankle shaping. Change to skin tone for 8 rows, then change back to black. Keep working in black until you get to the shoulder shaping row (decreases close to the neck), then change to light blue for 3 rows (This will be the blouse under the vest) Change back to skin tone and finish the head as before. Again, start at the feet and sew the seam on the doll to the neck. Finish stuffing the body, sew most of the head seam, stuff the head and close the gap.

All the parts you will need ... hair cap, braids, body, arms, skirt, straps for vest .... opps, missing the cloak!

Arms .... Start in light blue and continue as before. Only change colour for the hands. Seam the arms and sew onto the doll.

To make the black a vest, make 2 straps to sew across the shoulders. Cast on 10 stitches, k a row, then cast off. Attach a strap to the centre front where the black and light blue meet, across the shoulder and to the meeting of the black and light blue at the back. Attach the second strap to the other shoulder so you have a V in the front. I use a small amount of a contrasting colour to run a blanket stitch around the neck edge of the vest.

A Line skirt
With navy, cast on 62 stitches. Work 6 rows in garter stitch.
Next row, k 16, place a marker, k 30, place a marker, k 16.
Alternate rows are always purl.
*Next knit row, knit to 2 stitches before the marker, k2tog, move marker, k1 k2 tog, k to 3 stitches before the next marker, k2 tog, k1, move marker, k2 tog, knit to end.
Purl row.
Knit row.
Purl row.**
Repeat * row (decrease 4 stitches)
Continue this pattern of decreases (from * to **) 3 more times (46 st), then work the decreases on every knit row until 26 stitches are left.  Check the length of the skirt on the doll ... it should fall about mid calf. If needed, work a few more st st rows without decreases. Bind off.
Sew the seam on the skirt, then whip stitch the skirt to the doll.  Use a contrasting colour (same as the embroidery at the top of the vest) to run a small running stitch across the waist just above the skirt.

Hair
Make a hair cap as before, from chestnut yarn. Tack the hair cap to the back of the head close to the neck. Cut 42 lengths of yarn about 30 cm long. Take 21 of these and knot them together at one end. Use 7 strands of yarn X 3 to make a braid. Repeat with the other cut lengths. Leave the knotted ends alone, but trim the other end of the braid to be the hair. Now, lift the hair cap and position the braids under the cap so they are just behind the shoulder. Secure the braids in place to the head. You know the braids will be tugged on so do secure them well!! Once the braids are secure, finish sewing the hair cap onto the head.

Use skin tone to make a nose, and 2 ears as before. Embroider the face.

Cloak
With purple, cast on 16 stitches.
Work in st st for 19 rows, increasing 1 stitch on each edge on every knit row ( I use k1, inc1, k to last 2 st, inc1, k1) but you can do the increases as it suits your method. You will have 34 stitches. Next 4 rows, decrease 1 stitch at each edge on the k rows. (This will give a rounded edge to the cape) (30 stitches)
Cast off 9 stitches at the start of the next row. Finish the row.
Cast off 9 stitches at the start of the next row. Work to the end.
Again, work the increases at the each edge of the cloak on the knit rows. Work 15 rows. You have 44 stitches now. Work 6 rows with no increases in st st.
Work 6 rows garter stitch, decreasing 1 stitch at each edge of alternate rows. Cast off.

Sew the neck of the cloak to the neck line of the doll. Tack the start of the second set of increases to the waist of the doll, so the top of the cloak folds over the place you attached it in a gentle fold. (This is like a little cape on top of the cloak) Go over the edge of the cape and cloak with navy thread in a a blanket stitch.

And now you have another kind of doll for your princess collection!

Tutorial for embroidering the face is now done! Making the face on the doll

A Doll Making Recipe

The Two Most Recent Dolls, with their Friend!

The body of the doll on the left, and a finished doll on the right

I have had requests for my knitted dolls dressed as princesses, and since I have been in a doll making state of mind, I took up the challenge. My first action was to see what patterns are available for this, and I was able to find a few crochet patterns, which varied widely in price. I very much prefer the dolls I make to be knit rather than crochet. I just like the knit surface better for this. So, I decided I would make up my own knit pattern once I discovered there were none that really suited my needs. So, I offer my pattern here for you, if you are inclined to try one yourself. I have written patterns for myself before but have not published any, so please bear that in mind if you jump in! This is more of a recipe, if you will. Change the yarn colour where necessary for the doll you are making. I am making the dolls from one of the current movies, which you will probably recognize, for my directions but the basic doll can be made to resemble any of the princesses, or perhaps your own little princess!

First step, study pictures of the desired dolls. There are certainly many of these available! Next step, round up the appropriate yarn colours.

To make this doll, I used 2 shades of blue, both quite soft in colour, for the dress and shoes. Of course, I also needed skin colour, hair colour and something for the cloak. You do not need much of any yarn colour, which makes these dolls wonderful scrap busters! Small bits of embroidery thread are needed for the facial features. Some of the yarn I used was Caron simply soft, some was Pound of Love, and some was Waverly. You will also need some stuffing for the doll. I use poly fill myself. I will eventually remember to weigh the yarn before I begin so I can be more exact with how much you will need, but for now, I just know it is not very much!

If you find any mistakes, please let me know and I will edit the pattern to correct it. I would also love to see your finished dolls if you make one! Please do not claim this pattern as your own, but feel free to make as many dolls as you like with it and share it with friends who are interested in making one. I have made so many toys from so many different designers and patterns that I have picked up bits from many different sources, but putting them together for this doll is my own. It is a small gesture of giving back to the many many crafters that have inspired me in my hobby.

I use 3 3/4 mm needles with worsted weight yarn, which gives a nice surface and does not let the stuffing show through. Gauge is not important at all for this project. The doll and the clothing is all knit flat, then seamed. The clothes are knit as part of the doll. These directions are specifically for the light blue princess doll, Elsa. The next blog posting gives directions on how to modify the pattern for her sister doll.

Main doll body (shoes, legs, torso, neck and head)

see the picture above for this section once it is completed.

This is all knit as one piece, then seamed up the back.
Starting with the shoes, cast on 6 stitches. (I work both legs and arms at the same time but that is just my personal preference) For this doll, the palest blue is the shoe colour.
Row 1    purl
Row 2   kfb in each stitch (12 stitches)
Row 3   purl
Row 4   knit 6, increase in next 2 stitches, k 4 (14 stitches) *Reverse this for the alternate shoe (k4, inc in next 2, k6)
Rows 5-7  work in st st
Row 8   k6 k2tog k2tog k4 (12 stitches) *reverse for alternate foot (k4 k2tog k2tog k6)
Row 9   Shoe is finished! Change to colour needed for legs. Purl
Row 10 k7 k2tog k3 (11 st) *reverse for other foot (k3 k2tog k7)
Rows 11 - 27 Work in st st.
If you are working the legs one at a time, place the stitches on a holder and make the other leg now. Then put both legs on the same needle, ready to do a knit row.

Change to the colour needed for the blouse of the doll. This is the other shade of blue, for my doll it is slightly darker.
Row 28 cast on 1 stitch, k11, cast on 2, k11 (25 stitches)
Row 29 cast on 1 stitch, p 25 (26 stitches)
Rows 30-39 work in st st
Row 40 (decrease for waist shaping) k6 k2tog k2tog k6 k2tog k2tog k6 (22 stitches)
Rows 41-51 work in st st
Row 52   Change to skin colour k5 k2tog k2tog k4 k2tog k2tog k5 (18 st)
Rows 53-55 st st
Row 56  Neck decrease  (k3 k2tog)x3 k3 (15 st)
Row 57 purl
Row 58 (k1 kfb) across row (22 stitches)
Row 59 Purl
Row 60 k6  ( kfb k1) x 5 k6 (27 st)
Rows 61-75 work in st st
Row 76 ( k1 k2tog) for row (18 st)
Row 77 purl
Row 78  (k2 tog) across row (9 st)
Row 79  p1 ( p2 tog) across row (6 st)
Break yarn, thread through stitches and pull tight.

Starting at the shoes, mattress stitch the seams closed, doing one foot and leg, then the other. Stuff the legs lightly, then sew the torso seam and stuff the body. Do not over stuff, you should be able to see the waistline after it is stuffed. Sew part of the head, stuff, then finish closing the seam. The seam on the back of the head will be covered with hair so do not worry about keeping it really neat. Do not worry about all the yarn ends. You will use some of them in the seaming and the others you just leave tucked inside the doll. Use one of the skin coloured threads to run a gathering stitch around the lowest row of head increases and pull to shape the neck. Wind the yarn around the neck once or twice and secure with a knot at the back of the head. Sew the opening in the crotch area closed where you cast on the 2 stitches. Now the body is done!

Arms  Make 2 the same

With skin colour, cast on 4 stitches.
row 1 purl
row 2 inc 1 st each end of row, knit (6 st)
row 3 purl
row 4 inc 1 st each end of row, knit (8 st)
row 5 purl
change to colour for sleeves .... for this doll, that is the pale blue, same colour as the shoes.
row 6 inc 1 st each end of row, knit (10 st)
row 7 purl
Work 16 rows in st st.
Change to skin colour again.
(k1 k2tog) x 3  (7 st)
Work 4 rows st st.
Break yarn and thread needle with yarn. Thread through stitches and pull tight to gather.
Use mattress stitch to sew sleeve and arm closed from the hand to the top of the sleeve colour, leaving the top open to attach to doll. Push any yarn ends into the sleeve to hide them. You may or may not need to use stuffing for the arms. I find the seam of the mattress stitch and extra yarns tucked inside are often enough body.
Position the open top of the arm to the shoulder area, right under the neck and secure to the doll to make her shoulders.

Fitted Skirt

Using the same colour as the body, and beginning at the waist
Cast on 24 stitches
Purl one row.
row 2 k1 m1 k to last stitch m1 k1 (26 st)
row 3 purl
repeat rows 2 and 3 until there are 34 stitches on the needle, ending with a purl row.
Work 10 rows in st st.
Next row (should be a k row, if it is not, do the purl row so you are ready to knit) k1 k2tog k to last 3 stitches, k2tog k1
Next row k1 purl to last stitch k1
Repeat these 2 rows until you have 24 stitches on the needle (should be 5 repeats)
Work 4 rows of seed stitch (k1 p1 for the entire row, and next row alternating the k and p stitches)
Cast off loosely in pattern.
Beginning at the waist, use mattress stitch to sew the seam closed to the end of the st st section (stop at the same place the decreases start )
Put the skirt on the doll so the slit opening is in front of one leg. Sew the skirt to the doll at the same row as the waist shaping. Hide the yarn ends inside the doll.

Belt
With lighter blue, cast on 26 stitches.
Work 2 rows in st st.
Next row, cast off 12 stitches. k3 turn work. p1 p2tog. turn work. slip 1st st to right hand needle, k1, psso. Continue to knit and cast off the rest of the stitches. Leave a long tail at the end to fasten the belt to the doll.
Sew a seam to close the belt, then position the belt so the V is at the centre front. Secure the belt using a whip stitch along both the top and bottom edges.

Cloak
Use a light weight, airy yarn, or perhaps even crochet cotton (I will try this on the next doll). I have some lace mohair with a strand of shiny nylon in it that I thought would make a light looking cloak, so that is what I used this time. It took only 5 gm of yarn to make my cloak. I used 8 mm wooden needles for this part.

Cast on 26 stitches. Work 6 rows in st st.
row 7, bind off 10 stitches, knit to end.(16 st)
row 8 bind off 10 stitches in purl, purl to end (6 st)
Work in st st, using the following pattern until you have 26 stitches on the needle.
k1 kfb k to last 2 st kfb k1 (8 st)
purl
Once you have 26 stitches, work another 8 rows in st st with no further increases.
Bind off loosely.

Fold the top of the cloak (the cast on edge) in half lengthwise and whip stitch the edge together. Place 1 of the short edges of this part of the garment at the centre front of the top of the dress and whip stitch it in place. /Continue across the top of the shoulders, where the skin and sleeve meet, across the back, over the other shoulder and then the other side of the front. You have a bit of a collar effect at the front and the cloak drapes down the back. I used a stitch to gather the collar at the back where the arm and back meet.

(If you have some tulle, that would also make a nice cloak if you are not inclined to knit it.)

Hair
I have 2 ways that I use to make this style of hair. I will describe one here, and the other way when I write the modifications to make the sister doll. This style took 26 gm of SuperSaver yarn to make the entire hair style.
Start by making a hair cap.

Cast on 30 stitches. Work in garter stitch for 16 rows.
next row ( k1 k2tog) for row (20 st)
knit row
k2tog across row (10 st)
knit row
k2tog across row (5 st)
Cut yarn, thread through stitches and pull tight to gather. Use the yarn tail to sew the edges together.
Sew the hair cap to the doll along the edges to make the hairline.
Cut about 60 lengths of yarn, about 40 cm long. Use a crochet hook or your tapestry needle to knot each cut strand along the hairline. Fold each strand in half, pull through the cap and knot. Work around the hairline and fill in any spots that show through when you gently pull the hair into a loose pony tail. I do the front part of the hair in 2 rows to keep the hair cap from showing through.
Gently pull the hair into a ponytail and braid it off to one side. Tie the end of the braid and cut the yarn.

Finishing

Use skin tone to make a nose in the centre of the face.
Make ears just in front of the hair about the same height as the nose.
Use hair colour to embroider some bangs.
Switch to embroidery thread to make the eyes and mouth.
Use a red coloured pencil to give a little colour to the cheeks.

Tutorial on embroidering the face is here!

And your princess is done!

Abbrviations used:
kfb knit in front and back of stitch to increase a stitch
psso pass slipped stitch over
k2tog decrease a stitch by knitting 2 stitches together
m1 increase 1 stitch by picking up the horizontal yarn just before the stitch you are going to knit and knit into the new stitch through the back